June 27, 2010
One of my favorite kayaking moments of 09 was surfing the NOC wave. Carving back and forth on it and bouncing down the front of it was pretty addictive. I returned a year later to either find the NOC wave at a little higher level of difficulty or my paddling at a little lower level of proficiency. I took a beating in the rocks each time the wave flushed me out upside down. My penalty for not rolling faster while still in the hole. The next day I felt like I had fallen down a flight of stairs. I even managed to bruise the sole of my right foot, how does that happen?. My back has a nice big red bruise, I'm missing a couple of chunks from my hands, but once again, it was the highlight of my weekend. Loved it, even with the beat-downs and the numerous unsuccessful attempts. There is just something fun about getting thrown from the bull, pulling up your boot straps and hopping back on for another try. I had called it a day when some of my SRVCC pals walked up and Amy talked me into going back out for one more ride. I'm glad she did because it was the only time I managed to get on the wave, surf, albeit briefly, then get back off without getting the crap knocked out of me. Jackson says that I made it 8 seconds, he might have been generous with that, but I'll take it. Sticking with the bull metaphore, my goal is always to stay on it for at least 7 seconds. The real highlight though was watching Tommy Yon surf the living *#&$ out of that hole. Beautiful aerial 360s, both forward and reverse, cartwheel after cartwheel bare handed, move after move. That cat knows that wave and what to do with it. Really cool stuff to see.